Follow Christian Trommsdorff and his 3 team-mates during expedition in Pakistan
In Lisi Steurer's words
"Weather was quite nice and Aymeric, Patrick and me did a nice "warm up" rock route close to basecamp. In the first pitch we found 3 bolts but nothing more. So we added another 7 pitches without bolts and had a nice climb in good rock close to Basecamp.
After a few days of snowfall we skitoured up to Sarpo Laggo Pass (5.550m) to acclimatize again and spent another snowy cold night up there. Next day Aymeric and Patrick did some exploring up there (because the weather was getting better during the day) while Christian and me left in the early morning to go down to BC on May 24 again.
After a few days of bad wheather again, we focused to climb Sarpo Laggo Peak (6.150m) which Aymeric and Patrick scouted out on May 24. We left BC on May 28th and skied up to Sarpo Laggo Pass (5.550m) where we put up our tent and spent the night there. Next morning we started to climb South West Face
leading to South West Ridge of Sarpo Laggo in more or the less poor, deep snow conditions. After 12h of an exhausting climb we reached the top of Sarpo Laggo Peak (6.150m).
We put up our tent just below the massive summit cornice and spent the night there.
The next morning we enjoyed a beautiful sunrise on top of the peak with an incredible view on K2, Nanga Parbat, Ogre, Latok, Rakaposhi. We spent some nice sunny hours up at the summit enjoying the Karakorum scenery before we left down to Sarpo Laggo pass (5.550m) and spent another night there again. On Thursday, 31st the weather started to get bad again and we headed back to BC.
After another few days of bad weather we had the option of good weather for 1,5 days according to our "wetterfrosch" jan from Chamonix. Since climbing on Shipton and Uli Biaho side would have been too dangerous because of the massive avalanches coming down, we decided to give trango side a try. Since we only had a chance of 1,5 days for good wheather we decided to try Trango I (6.350m) in lightweight alpine style without tent and only sleeping bags in order to be as fast as possible. We started on Mo,
June 4th early and headed up the beautiful west face of Trango I. The terrain seemed more complex than expected but ended up in a beautiful, 50 degrees slope to a Bergschrund close to summit.
After climbing the Bergschrund we headed up to a cornice covered top just above the massive serac we could see from the basecamp. For sure this was just the anticima but not the top. The top was still 150 vertical m away in form of a steep rock. While I decided to stop at 6.100m and prepare soup and
water after 14hours of climbing Christian, Patrick and Aymeric went on and tried to reach the summit within sunset. After 1hour hard trying they came back and decided to stop, since the terrain got more difficult and the missing daylight was a problem too. So we prepared for a nice bivouac without tent and only "alpine style" lightweight bivi gear up there (-21 degrees including wind). The next morning we decided to go down early and try to get recovered again.
So, unfortunately we did not reach our 2nd 6.000m peak for acclimatization, but it was an ambitious try to reach to top in one push which we had to stop after 1.800 vertical meters of hard trying.
On Wed 6th just the next day I had to go back to Askoli with our assistant cook Fida, we were trekking back to askoli where we finally arrived on fr, June 8th.\ Christian, Patrick and Aymeric left BC on June 7th heading to Concordia where they - Inshallah- will have an successful attempt on G4. I hope all will be well with them and see them soon again!
For me it was my first experience in altitude which I could "enjoy" a lot with a well experienced and very nice team I was very thankful to join."