Gugliermina - Boccalatte Gervasutti route, story of Jean Annequin
"A mixture of discovery, exploration of remote faces but also of obvious lines with crazy takeoffs, none of the « Gervasutti » tracks leave the climber hungry for undertaking.
To name a few:
- The Grandes Jorasses East face
- The Gervasutti pillar by the Tacul
- The Ailefroide North Face
- The Petit Capucin
- The Gugliermina
All those climbs, Guisetto has narrated them in his book « Mountain, my life ». We discover how, at the beginning of the season, he would rush to try the Civetta North Face in the Dolomites, but pushed back by bad weather he would ride train, bus and carriage to Courmayeur in order to try the Grandes Jorasses North face.
He would spend those seasons pacing faces, trying, butting, trying again, and dropping bivouacs at their foot to understand all possible lines
In 1938, he certainly accomplished one of the most beautiful remote lines: the Gugliermina. Very few people know this summit. It is extremely rare to climb to the peak of this Blanche de Peuterey antecime.
When you do the whole Peuterey, you thoroughly survey it, but essentially you circle it. The Western face dominates the Freney tormented glacier. Its Eastern face dominates the tormented Brenva glacier.
3 Years ago, on the way to go and climb on Peuterey through the Schneider plateau, we passed at their feet. My eyes could not stop dreaming of going to this pillar.
This year we did it.
Patrick, my climbing companion of the Freney pillar in 2009 was in. Patrick loves this terrain and especially excels in it. Efficiency and safety.
At the refuge we meet the master of the place, Giovani Bassanini, the King of the Grand Capucin. Over 100 climbing through all ways. This is the 4th time that he came to the Gugliermina.
Departure at 3 a.m. We arrived at the foot at 6: 45 am. Almost 4 hours for accessing this face:
-Climb back to the Inominata pass
-Cross the Freney glacier.
-Climb back to the Schneider plateau (watch out for rock falls at the beginning)
The first 200 meters go fast: a succession of compact slabs where you can protect yourself from time to time. It is easy and most of the timeyou can advance in tense cord.
What follows is more complex: a stiff pillar with many small wedges or cracks. Some are dead ends and lead to compact vertical slabs. Most relays are hanged and the path is not clear at all. There are a few pitons, probably 20 in all on the way.
At the crossing level the path is more logical even if one is impressed by the opening date. A compact dihedral provides access to this rope crossing.
By athletic length, you join the right edge. What follows is easy but requires vigilance because the output is really fragile.
From the summit, your eyes alternate between the Freney glacier and the Brenva one. My only wish was to keep climbing higher and not climb back down. Unfortunately, we had left our ice axes and crampons at the foot.
In this month of August, the descent of the White is a good bunch of rubble. In short, at 8 pm we were back at the shelter, really happy.
Thank you, Patrick, for coming along."