Andres Marin On the blog
Date of birth : 22/04/1983
Lives in : Ouray Colorado
Favorite spot : That’s a hard question. I have so many. If I had to place 6 I would say that the Alaska Range, Indian Creek, Fisher Towers, Black Canyon, Ice climbing in Kyrgyzstan/China border and the European Alps are some of my favorites places to climb.
I’m originally from a very small town in the central mountain range of the Andes in Colombia.
I learned to climb there when I was 14 years old. I always dreamed of climbing and traveling all over the world. About 9 years ago I moved to US where I got to go to mountain guide school. Since, I have had the opportunity to climb in many different mountain ranges and done all kinds of climbing. From bouldering to high altitude climbing and everything in between.
Climbing and guiding are my main professions and passions, but not my only ones. I love to be outside sharing great times with my friends and family.
Second place at the 2012 Ouray Ice Festival
Recieved the Mugs Stump Grant for an expedition to the Kook Shall-
too range in Kyrgyzstan, September of 2011
Represented the USA in the 2009,2010,& 2011 Ice World Cup
Guided a blind climber to the top of Mount Rainier
Guided 4 successful expeditions on Denali
Speed record of Independence Monument 5 min. 24 sec.
First Colombian to climb a 5.12+ OW
2006, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012 Ouray Ice Climbing Competition
28 High Angle Search & Rescue missions. Over 60 on variable terrain
Climbed a M9+ R X on gear
Climbed a M12.
Have climbed 5.13 sport and trad, WI6, M12, A3+.
What are the 3 most beautiful routes you achieved?
Moon light buttress in Zion Utah 5.12+
The Nose Yosemite 5.11 C1
West face of Mustyr Peak Kyrgyzstan FA 5.9 R, AI 3. 5,100 Metres
Who do you prefer mountaineering with?
I like to be outside; rock, ice or alpine climbing with strong, knowledge people that like to try hard and also have great energy. Lately I have been climbing with Steve house to me he is a great example of a great person to be in the mountains with.
Your best time in mountain?
There are so many!!!!!! I would say that summer 2010 was super fun. I spent 33 days in the Alaska Range climbing, exploring, and having great times in one of the most wildest places in the world.
And the worst?
Fortunately, I have not had any personal super bad experiences out there. But I would say that some of rescues that I have helped with were pretty ugly and sad too.
What do you like to do when you’re not mountaineering?
When I’m not climbing, I like to skydive, ski, kayak, run, listen to and play music, read, think about new gear innovations. I always have to do something; I don’t sit still well.
What’s your involvement with the Millet design center?
I’m the USA ambassador for the brand.
How do you feel mountaineering will evolve in the next years?
I would say that the future of climbing is going to involve finishing climbs faster and lighter, in awesome clean style. Different from before where climbers had not only to worry about the climb, but also the gear they used. Nowadays, our gear is so advanced and dependable that we only think about going up and coming down safely. It is awesome to look back at many of the greatest climbing accomplishments, how they were done with such old gear, totally inspirational.