Katie Bono



Date of birth :  10 / 30 / 1987        

Lives in :  Washington; Bend, Oregon; and Canmore, Alberta

Finest achievement : Lady Speed record on Mt. Rainier (4392m) in 4:58:41

Originally from Minneapolis, MN, I discovered climbing during college. I attended Dartmouth College in New Hampshire, where I ski raced and studied geology.  After graduating, I raced for an Olympic development team based out of Sun Valley, Idaho before transitioning to full-time guiding and climbing in 2012.  I love all types of climbing, but the most rewarding disciplines for me are alpine rock and ice.


Career highlights

         Lady Speed record on Mt. Rainier (4392m) in 4:58:41

         West face / rib of Kahiltna Queen, Alaska range



What are your finest climbing achievements ?

Speed record on Mt. Rainier

West face of Kahiltna Queen, Alaska Range

Who do you prefer climbing with?

My boyfriend, and people who are stoked to climb, levelheaded, and with a similar sense of humor !

Your best time in mountain?

There was this one bivy in a snowstorm when I had just started climbing that was, on one hand, pretty miserable, but on the other hand, really great because of how my partner and I worked together to get through it.

And the worst?

Guiding in the freezing rain at 13,500' on Mt. Rainier.

What do you like to do when you’re not climbing?

I thoroughly enjoy sleeping in. Besides that, I cross country ski and and trail run a ton for training. I also like to roast my own coffee beans, and I probably spend far too much time reading guidebooks and planning climbing trips.

How do you feel your discipline will evolve in the next years?

I think people will continue to trend towards increasingly lighter and faster ascents, with elements and strategies of other endurance sports like ski-mountaineering and Nordic skiing being brought into play.